April 14 - ¿Qué haría Jesús?

April 14, 2017 Good Friday

Woke up very early after a lot of dreaming, Head full of Good Friday. And a theological question.

¿Qué haría Jesús? - What would Jesus do?
...  if no one would pick up the hammer and nails, and said, “Not going to do it.” and no one else would. ¿Qué haría Jesús?

The “Spearer” refused the order and said, “Not me.” and no one else would either. ¿Qué haría Jesús?

What if no one would have obeyed the command that Friday. And it has to be done! ¿Qué haría Jesús? - What would Jesus do?

Would you do it? Someone you know do it? Think I would? Of course someone would do it, someone sick, crazy, angry enough. But what if on that day no one would? What would that act of disobedience mean? I can't imagine anyone I know doing such a barbaric act. That's a compliment to you, the reader. Those are the ramblings of my mind for what ever they are worth this morning.

Outside there's noise, The neighbors are creating street pictures (alfombras) depicting the 12 stations f the cross. An artist draws the design on the pavement with chalk and then the people, old, young, boys and girls start filling in the pictures with colored salt. Some very colorful and others a little more somber.

Lots of conversation and supervising from those standing by offering advice.

I'm told the pictures take about 1 ½ hours to create and that about 10:00, from the church several blocks away, the Via Crucis begins.

Sorry no pictures of the peregrination. My card reader destroyed them while I was down loading them to my computer.  I'm lucky to have the three showing in this blog.

At the head of the procession are the clergy waving incensors, then some teen-aged boys in the role of Jesus, the guards and soldiers, all in appropriate dress. There is a girl dressed all in white who is standing close to Jesus and two figures all dressed in a somber black which on this hot day seems really punishing. Rounding out the procession are neighbors and onlookers who follow the route from station to station.

At each of the stations there is a shrine with flowers and a picture. The group stops and the story is re-enacted for the onlookers. The priests speak and there is some music. 

At the conclusion the group moves on with music while the guards continue whipping Jesus, I thought a bit vigorously. When his shirt was removed at the 10^th station red welts were visible.

The first station and the last two stations were accompanied by Ennio Marricone's, “Gabriel's Oboe” which I didn't recognize the first time, perhaps due to my attention on other things. But the last two times, the scenes and actions accompanied by the music brought tears to my eyes.

Check out "Gabriel's Oboe" on YouTube and treat yourself to one of the rarest of all human talents, the ability to create a melody of overwhelming beauty.

The procession walks on, through the alfombras which seemed disrespectful to the artistry and labor, although interestingly, I noticed that some of the pictures appeared recognizable the next day.

Ate some street vended ice cream in a cone with my fingers crossed. More on the conclusion tomorrow so stay tuned.

Planning to visit some friends tomorrow (Sunday) morning and then take 303 bus to Berlin. I'll really be glad when this next part of the trip is behind me.

Sorry about the pictures,  Warren

April 15 - Double Rats so you'll have to take my word

April 15,2017, Saturday - Better night of sleep.  Didn't wake up until about 4:30 to the sound of birds.

Heard men's voices last night and this morning there were a couple of 40 year olds, speaking French, I think.  Spoke in quiet voices and couldn't tell exactly.  Only a brief greeting and then back to each other.

I saw some cases that look like surf boards.  Perhaps they will be going to the beach today.  El Salvador has a reputation, among other things, of having some fine beaches as well as great surf.

I hear them speaking with the staff in  Spanish.  Observation - We Americans, with the exception of Tom Mott, speak only one.  Can you name one person in Newton who is fluent in another language with the exception of a language teacher at the high school?  Oh, I forgot, Lawrence!  How much, I bet, he would like some of us to learn a greeting or a word or phrase in his native tongue.

Going to give you some pictures of where I'm staying.  The shower is so hot I had to turn off the electric element.  The food is really gourmet and I think of the contrast here in comparison to where I'll be visiting in a few days.  A different world.  Such a disconnect in this world; between those who have and those who don't.  I'm glad I'm part of the former and not the later.  In truth, the only people I really know are those who "have" in abundance; the only people who will read this are those who have.  Except those in Muñoces and, as has been pointed out to me recently, I don't even know them.  Sad.

Well today I'll make my way to the center of town and, if I'm feeling strong, walk through Mercado Central.   It has been several years since I've done that.  It seems to be the most lively place on the planet which I'm sure is the case for every market in the world.  I wonder if I'll see anyone I met on my first visits there?  I notice the police seem to keep an eye on me and that is comforting.  Hopefully, those who might see me as easy pick'ins are aware of the police even more than me.

Should be another hot one so I'm going to get going just as soon as breakfast is eaten.  It's terrifically dry and I'm having a difficult time drinking enough water to feel hydrated.  I'm not sweating except while walking.  I've been drinking and drinking but don't seem to get ahead.

Oh yes, importantly, the YUCCA, the ice cream and potato have all been welcomed in my gut. Enough said.  I'll be more adventuresome today.  I hope my system is becoming stronger.  I've been careful about brushing my teeth but that may change, We'll see.

Just noticed the 2 guys are gone as well as their cases.  It's been nice being the only one residing here.

Caught Bus 26 to Mercado Central.  Not many people riding today.  Must be the holiday weekend.
The final route was different than I remembered so I had to jump off and re-oriente myself.   Good thing that I like to walk.  My philosophy is to walk rapidly even if you're not sure where you're going.  If anyone is watching they will think you not lost or weak.

Bought some things in the market; 4 AA batteries .25, 5 mangoes .50, Mas .25, bag for my small laptop $6.00.  They really don't use the paper dollars.  They get gritty and dirty, so the dollar coin is often given in change.

The market is like a living organism.  Tiendas that were there last time I was here are gone.  Some of the streets have no shops.  Others where there had been none are now too crowded. It's difficult to pass without bumping into others and trying to dodge cars and pickup trucks threading their way through the tangle of humanity.

Not really so busy as I might have led you to believe so it was an enjoyable stroll,listening and smelling (oh add fish and fruit to the list of  aromas I wrote about the other day) that stimulate the nose.  You might be able to get a whiff if you look intently enough at the pictures.  Dang no pictures

I think that locals seeing a gringo strolling through the market might buoy their feeling that if he is walking around here it can't be too bad.  Although right after I had the that thought I bought a Mas news paper and it was full of articles about folks being killed, including a 45 year old coconut vender shot and a picture of her body laying beside her tienda.
Back at Oasis. The girls read the church's letter to Muñoces and I filled them in on the history and the current project.   They gave me some feed back on my remarks to each family.  Sorry just one picture.  But it's a good one of my three Spanish tutorizadas.

Not going to have much time so I'm planning to give each family the letter and tell them that we have received the decision to end the relationship, that we're sorry they are making that decision, that we had hoped this would be a long friendship, but that we respect their decision and, in saying good-bye, thank them for their kindness and hospitalidad. We wish them nothing but the best and they will  forever be in our hearts.

I'll be glad when this project is in the review mirror.

I'm going to attempt a couple of visits tomorrow and then board the bus to Berlin.  More later.

DOUBLE RATS my card reader has lost all my pictures from today and some from yesterday!  Sorry!



More later, and that will be from Berlin!    Ojala,  Warren

April 13 - Wet Streets and Friends

Thursday April 13, 2017
Up early and down to the patio to read, think and plan the day. 

I thought it was about 7:00 but in fact Dora told me it was 6:00. So I' d been up since 4:30.



She told me she remembered me from my stay here several years back.  Nice to have a personality that people remember even after several years.

 7:30 they invited me to another part of the patio where there was a table, candle and food fit for a king.  Perfect temperature about 70 and sunny with a slight breeze to stir the air.  I hear birds cooing and chirping and only in the background do I hear the sound of buses, the exhaust from their engines starting to turn the air blue.  But here, right now it is about as nice as it gets!  If only my sweetheart were here!



On the streets, which were wet, I walked the familiar route to Piche's, Monsy's and the school.  I feel a little older and slower.  I try to remove that thought from my head but it periodically returns as I feel like I put more effort into the stride over the wet spots.

First stop Monsy's.    She was at the beach but her son Diego called his father,  Ricardo who called his mother, Elsi. And we renew our relationship.  We met Elsi several years back when we brought some items sent by her son.  She was living in Cedar Rapids with another son.

Had a nice chat and then Ricardo and Diego fixed my phone so we called Linda and everyone had an exciting video chat!   WOW! What a wonderfully magical world we live in.  Mustn't let all our advances in technology be lost or  be screwed up!!!

Disappointment  -  Piche's weren't home.  Neighbor thought they might be on vacation.  I'll check back later.

Ate lunch at BurgerKing. Just like Newton's but a more graceful floor designed. Hate to eat as I am, like an American.

Sort of frightened to eat on the street due to the long time I've been out of the country and the short time I'm here.

But I did buy some Yucca from a street vendor and plan to see how it treats my innards.

From there walked to Quesadias por Exportacion and gave Freda a couple of pictures I took on our last visit.  Tried to buy 2 quesadias and a drink but she wouldn't have it.  They were as good as I remember.  You've never had a quesadia until you've had one of her's.  Told me she is a graduate dietician from Universadid  Naccional and got the formula from a girl friend a longtime ago.  She  talked about her family of 3 boys, one living in Toronto  and her three grandsons. Told her I was going to BUY a box before I return home and that I was going to PAY for it.  Stay tuned to see how that episode ends.

When you're doing a lot of walking one needs a rest, it's nice to have a place where you're known, where you can sit a while and be out of the heat. 


That is one of the experiences I appreciate in my travels around the city as a pilgrim.

Having regained some energy from the quesadias and coke I walked to the bi-lingual (actually tri-lingual, since they are also teaching Chinese) school.


No one was there but the security guard Oscar, helped me compose a letter (but wasn't able to read it for spelling errors - sad) telling them that I was going to go to Muñoces, solo and that I had a letter I was going to give to all the folks explaining what had happened.  I hope to make contact with them before I leave so I can repay them for the wonderful meal they treated Linda and me to 2 years ago.

Walking home in the late afternoon heat I became aware of the aromas wafting up from the curb and gutter. Not unpleasant, just not fragrances one would ordinary associate with one another.   Warm water running into the drain from having washed clothes, the smell of dryer sheets, the usual sight of an animal's presence, exhaust from buses "hot-roding" the streets and the aroma of a street vender cooking pupusas or an exotically spiced soup that would spell months of gastro-intestinal attention.  I know that words or pictures don't convey what I'm describing, so you'll just have to try and concoct the formula yourself or -   come to the country and "savor salvador."

Another short video with Linda telling me I need to edit yesterday's blog. 

Then Oasis's owners, Damian and Carolina came by and we exchanged stories about what's happening in each other's world.  I initially stayed with them when I came down for 3 months in 2001 and they came for a visit with their two boys a year or two later, and visited our church. So some of you probably met them.

Their son's are prospering in many ways as visual artist and musician, volunteering to help those less fortunate. 

They are some of the many people taking the napkin's admonishment to heart and not,  "Staying Put."





The phrase, "mi casa es su casa" is embodied by my hosts and their employees.


                                       
And so I'm going to sign off and hope to get some sound sleep for my
brain and mind!



Tomorrow (Good Friday) has yet to be planned in my mind so come back and see, "Que pasara'." what's going to happen

Warren

April 12 - My Napkin Challenge

One more performance on trombone of Jesus Christ Superstar on Saturday night and final caste party,

biked to church, sang in the church choir on Sunday, lunch with Linda at Burger King and last minute preparations before departure at 5:45 AM Monday morning for El Salvador.





Monday - RATS! 7:00 having breakfast at home.

Up at 3:00 but due to some issues, a late departure from Des Moines would cause me to miss my Atlanta flight which was also over booked due to weather problems in that city.

So back to bed.

Now I'm booked to leave on Wednesday same time.  Now to reschedule my time at home and in El Salvador.



Tuesday 4-11-2017 getting ready to go tomorrow morning but I still have today to Subway with Mike and Dave, although they went yesterday as well.  Norm is on a trip with his brothers.

Monday evening Linda I ate at Arby's then went to Grinnell college to practice with the band and chorus.  Helps keep my mind calm.  Starting to get the pre-trip feelings. Hope there are no more disruptions.   I got my reservations in San Salvador and Berlin changed - both very accommodating.






Wednesday 3:00 am woke up and out of the house by 3:40.  This is what an 80 years old Erickson look like at 4:30 am.






My napkin gives me my motto for the trip. Although I know I'm not going to change anything, nevertheless it's a nice thought to accompany me on this journey.


Beautiful sun rise at 24,000 feet on way to Atlanta.

Arrrived in Atlanta at 7:30, caught the train to E31 and noticed that I was taller, whiter and the only one saying "thank you" instead of "Gracias."  That  changed fast.



Compañeras de silla were two ladies from Usulutan who helped me practice my Spanish.


Pleasant flight arriving at 12:30 which was my 11:30.  Got to find out what's up with that.

The terminal has been remodeled and really looks nice but I had to ask directions.  Notice the brown rope with the green frons at the at the top.  Nice artistic touch.


Got my visa for $10, picked up my bags and got the green light.  Out in the the 95 deg. heat. ¡Carrumba!

Antonio, my taxista came up with an offer that beat walking with my bags and he took me to Hotel Oasis.  The traffic was horrendous. We talked politics on the ride in.  He didn't think much of his current  president Sanches Cerran. Likewise me for mine, so we had something in common right out of the gate!!!  I knew there was something about him I liked.

Got a nice room at the Hotel that I've stayed at previously and had a terrific What'sapp video call to my sweetheart.   That is one fine app!!!






Going to walk the neighborhood and start getting aculturated or aculturized (not sure which word to use) but so far I feel pretty comfortable although Antonio said to be careful.

Walked up to San Luis  Plaza got a Lector de  Tarjeta (Card Reader) for the SD that broke. 


Ate at McDonalds - Yuck - Nothing else available.  BIGGEST appears to have been gobbled up by McD.  Shame.

Beautiful statue of Torogocen (large birds of El Salvador)  in a redondel, a familiar sight.

Back to Oasis and work on the blog.

Satisfying day.  Finally here and settling in.  Tomorrow will try to connect with friends.

Buenas noches mi esposa y mis amigos.

                                                    Warren

ps thanks to my granddaughter Elysha and my grandson Caleb,my new laptop tablet is working better than I anticipated.  Thanks you two!!!